On 2005 Audi A4 Where Is Sensor for Outside Air Located
08-12-201208:25 PM #one
Active Member Two Rings
Bad Ambient Temperature Sensor? Where'south it located?
Ok, and so where I live it's recently been very hot. Well-nigh two months ago I had my compressor replaced and my ac worked for a lilliputian while. In that location's no leak, but when information technology gets over 93 outside (actually been around 105 every day here) my car air-conditioning doesn't work at all and I am pretty certain the radiator fan isn't working during that time either.
At present my temperature sensor is nearly always incorrect. It's about 15 degrees off when it's really hot. When it's cool, information technology'southward not besides far off.
Would this be causing me this trouble? Too, I don't accept a windows figurer to install the service transmission so could somebody tell me the location of the sensor? I'one thousand thinking virtually swapping it to run into if it makes a difference.
08-12-201208:43 PM #ii
Veteran Member Four Rings
It's right in front of the radiator. attached to the power steering libation.
08-12-201209:sixteen PM #4
Veteran Fellow member Four Rings
If y'all accept mill stuff more than likely.
Unless you can somehow drop your plastic slip crap and clasp you paw in there.
My bumper is Convienently fifty% not there so I forget how it'southward supposed to be lol
-Shane Drake-
1981 VW Caddy v.4L V8 Swap Speedhunters Feature!
2006 A4 Avant Dolphin Grayness
2007 GT3071R A4 Moro Blue-RIP
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08-12-201209:27 PM #6
Veteran Member Four Rings
Idk, I replaced mine it was
Similar 20$
Lamentable I didn't read your mail service
-Shane Drake-
1981 VW Caddy v.4L V8 Swap Speedhunters Feature!
2006 A4 Avant Dolphin Greyness
2007 GT3071R A4 Moro Blue-RIP
>DRAKLOREs Build<
Formerly DRAKES-Performance
08-12-201210:22 PM #vii
Veteran Fellow member Four Rings
Never heard of that, I don't think you tin can get in in that location without removing the bumper considering of the bumper has an underside. It's right behind the grille, under the crashbar.
08-13-2012eleven:37 AM #9
Veteran Member Four Rings
Originally Posted by kmad86
no. But the ECU uses the ambience temp info to summate A/C load or something.
-CP
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08-13-201212:27 PM #10
Veteran Fellow member Four Rings
Originally Posted by Charles.waite
Where are you getting this info? I would like to be more than educated on our "AUTO HVAC" system. Please provide link to resources.
2006 Audi 2.0 T quattro Tiptronic
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ODue east M +_______________
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08-xiii-201201:56 PM #eleven
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The ambient air temp sensor does have an affect on the Ac, so this could exist office of why your AC isn't as cold. Y'all could besides be low on R134A refrigerant. There's quite a few possibilities really, i normally leave Air-conditioning issues upwards to the pros.
So some searching around on this site and you lot might be able to find more info.
Jason
08-13-201203:04 PM #12
Veteran Fellow member 4 Rings
Originally Posted by kmad86
The ambience air temp sensor sends temp betoken to the ac control unit and the instrument cluster. If temp is too cold (below 40 F) it will non engage the compressor.
I'd be more interested in why your fan isn't coming on. Fan not coming on = Pressure level raising as well high too chop-chop = A/C operation being shut off due to the pressure increase. If you have (or have access to) VagCom I would bank check the A/C system for DTCs and also when the A/C is not working check the compressor off code in Measured Value Block 1. the lawmaking will be 0-eighteen. 0 is compressor allowable on and the others are all different reasons for the compressor not engaging
New Build, 2010 Tiguan. Details to com
08-xiii-201203:30 PM #thirteen
Veteran Fellow member Four Rings
Might accept found the root cause of our issues with Air conditioning shutting OFF at iddle
Do yous recognize this guy?
The A4 does not apply an expansion valve similar almost every other vehicle. This filter is located inside the pressure hose and fifty-fifty if slighly clogged, the pressure will ascension and AC will shut off.
I will probably take time to supersede information technology this WE and will post a DIY with filter location. I will likewise supplant the dryier at the aforementioned time.
Phil
08-13-201203:40 PM #14
Veteran Member Four Rings
At that place'due south no expansion valve? Than how does the system work
-Shane Drake-
1981 VW Caddy 5.4L V8 Swap Speedhunters Feature!
2006 A4 Avant Dolphin Grey
2007 GT3071R A4 Moro Bluish-RIP
>DRAKLOREs Build<
Formerly DRAKES-Operation
08-thirteen-201203:42 PM #15
Veteran Fellow member 4 Rings
Originally Posted by DRAKLORE
Nope, none
Everything is regulated past this tinny filter who has some kind of brass tube inside
Phil
08-13-201203:55 PM #16
Veteran Fellow member Four Rings
Well the filter I have seen on a few 2010 edges, merely in that location was still an expansion valve
-Shane Drake-
1981 VW Caddy 5.4L V8 Swap Speedhunters Feature!
2006 A4 Avant Dolphin Grayness
2007 GT3071R A4 Moro Blue-RIP
>DRAKLOREs Build<
Formerly DRAKES-Operation
08-13-201203:57 PM #17
Veteran Fellow member Four Rings
Originally Posted by DRAKLORE
Check ETKA, no expansion valve on the unabridged system
Phil
08-13-201204:49 PM #18
Veteran Member Four Rings
Originally Posted by DRAKLORE
Its an orifice tube. When combined with an accumulator it does the aforementioned thing as an expansion valve. Expansion systems also accept a receiver drier which orifice systems don't
If you become back to the 80's y'all'll discover almost exclusively orifice tubes on Fords. Escorts used to accept 2 tools for removing them, the 2d 1 for removing it after you lot bankrupt it with the first tool
New Build, 2010 Tiguan. Details to com
08-13-201205:02 PM #xix
Veteran Fellow member Four Rings
And so all those expansion valves I replaced were actually just orifice tubes?
The lies, the humanity!
-Shane Drake-
1981 VW Caddy 5.4L V8 Swap Speedhunters Characteristic!
2006 A4 Avant Dolphin Grey
2007 GT3071R A4 Moro Blue-RIP
>DRAKLOREs Build<
Formerly DRAKES-Operation
08-13-201205:17 PM #20
Veteran Member Four Rings
Originally Posted by DRAKLORE
Haha, for the record the labor fourth dimension guide yet calls the orifice tube an expansion unit. And I don't desire to pelting on Phil's parade but I don't retrieve it'll prepare the poor cooling at idle, I already replaced mine since it was dirty and information technology fabricated merely a negligible divergence. I'm gonna replace the accumulator since I already have the front end end ripped off my car while I expect for my couplers to show up. I'll post up in here if information technology makes a difference
New Build, 2010 Tiguan. Details to com
08-xiv-201204:42 AM #23
Veteran Member Four Rings
Originally Posted past kmad86
No, you lot to belch the system open up up the line and remove it to audit. And so vacuum and recharge the system
New Build, 2010 Tiguan. Details to com
08-fourteen-201205:10 AM #24
Veteran Member Iv Rings
Originally Posted by bman005
The A4 has a pretty bones system
Compressor
Dryer
Evaporator
Condenser
Orifice tube (#8)
With all the dissimilar satellite systems beingness OK, thinking of fan relays for example making sure that both fans are running full speed when full cold is selected, and of course a system correctly charged, I just run into the orifice tube being the root cause
Phil
08-14-201208:42 AM #25
Veteran Member Iv Rings
That was the aforementioned conclusion I came to too. Even so it did non set up mine, A/C yet sucks at idle
New Build, 2010 Tiguan. Details to com
08-fourteen-201210:43 AM #26
Veteran Member Four Rings
I know my ambient temperature readings increased when I went FMIC, but I think information technology'due south the summer heat radiating off of the intercooler doing it. Was worse when I had a poorly shielded intake equally well, which is another reason dorsum to stock
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08-14-201212:l PM #27
Veteran Fellow member 4 Rings
Originally Posted by bman005
Interesting. So in the fall and winter, when I apply my heater and have my arrangement gear up to AUTO the compressor in not engaged? Does it engage in the winter when I press the defog button?
2006 Audi ii.0 T quattro Tiptronic
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08-14-201212:54 PM #28
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Originally Posted by airbornerifleman
It shouldn't. In the winter fourth dimension it wouldn't do any good to engaged the compressor to blow cold air to defrost a window. You lot'd want heat on.
Jason
08-xv-201207:26 AM #29
Veteran Fellow member Iv Rings
No flight scheduled this morning so I did the replacement
Shop was busy this morn
Connected the Ac cart to recover the Freon
Here is the area where the orifice tube is located
I pulled off the air filter assembly to access the dryer
24 & 22mm wrenches to crack open the line. With small pliers, pull of the orifice tube
The orifice tube is really nasty and I would guess 70% obstructed
Replaced the dryer, reserviced with 780 grams of new Freon. Feels cooler already especially at idle.
Will go along y'all posted
Phil
08-15-201209:38 AM #30
Veteran Fellow member Iv Rings
Squeamish! I ordered a new dryer yesterday, hope information technology takes care of my consequence likewise
New Build, 2010 Tiguan. Details to com
08-15-201211:18 AM #31
Veteran Member Four Rings
Phil - I assume when replacing the orifice tube you're opening the organization right? So I would have to become it evacuated then refilled afterwards replacing it right? And because the system is getting opened up, you'd have to supervene upon the dryer likewise.
How many miles did your tube accept on it? The A/C in my B7 is a bit warmer than my b6 so I'one thousand wondering if the orifice tube could be blocked or maybe I could be a bit low on Freon. How much would a shop charge to do a pressure test?
-CP
2008 Brilliant Black Unicorn (2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant) - R8 V10 Coils and Spark Plugs - AMI retrofit - Mk2 RNS-E
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08-15-201211:24 AM #32
Veteran Fellow member Four Rings
Originally Posted by Charles.waite
I assume when replacing the orifice tube you're opening the system right? Yep
So I would have to get it evacuated then refilled after replacing it correct? YES
And considering the system is getting opened upwardly, you'd have to replace the dryer also. Not really. When a organization is opened, and if the ambient air is really boiling, you but need to vaccum a bit longer (I did xl mn). My driyer was just quondam
How many miles did your tube have on it? Car is 2005.5 and 120K miles
How much would a shop charge to do a pressure test? Dazzler of my work, information technology's all free since the shop is most my part. I estimate a full tune should price around $80 in labor merely I am not sure
Phil
08-fifteen-201211:xl AM #33
Veteran Fellow member Four Rings
Originally Posted by fly300kts
Cheers!
And I'k quite jealous of your "office"! Maybe I'll take a shop evacuate the AC system and supplant my orifice (dear saying that word, haha). then accept them make full her up. Seattle is quite dry so humidity shouldn't be an issue. Might just replace both though as mines a 2006. Might every bit well supervene upon it while the system is evacuated...
-CP
2008 Brilliant Black Unicorn (2.0t South-Line Ti 6MT Avant) - R8 V10 Coils and Spark Plugs - AMI retrofit - Mk2 RNS-E
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08-15-201211:56 AM #34
Veteran Member 4 Rings
Originally Posted by Charles.waite
You are welcome to visit :)
Phil
08-23-201207:01 PM #35
Established Member Two Rings
Phil, how does your A/C performs afterward the surgery?
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08-23-201207:29 PM #36
Veteran Member Four Rings
Originally Posted past lesurfman
106F in Florida today and a lot of stop and go all day. Works like a champ. Did not shut off once.
Phil
07-12-2013ten:48 PM #37
Established Member 2 Rings
Hate to be the guy reviving the old thread, but the data here is practiced & I think I may exist upwards confronting a like event. With the advent of summertime & AC usage, I've noticed the post-obit patterns:
-Ac works great & blows common cold when the ambience temp on the dash reads a warm temperature (basically whenever the niggling snowflake isn't in that location)
-AC blows kind of cold when the snowflake is in that location
-AC doesn't blow cold air at all when it sinks so depression that the snowflake disappears (it will dip manner low & bottom out as low every bit ~50 below, but never goes above where it should exist)
With this behavior I tin can vouch that the ECU does use the ambience temp info to calculate A/C load. Based on other reading I've done, these symptoms seems to indicate a declining ambient temp sensor (the fiddling thing on the front of the radiator if I'm not mistaken?) but the clogged orifice tube seems like it may play into it as well. The indicated temp on my dash rarely stays where it should, and is perpetually going up & down equally I bulldoze. And my AC office depends on wherever it sits. I go dorsum & forth between rolling the windows downwardly when information technology dips depression & the AC gets warm, and rolling em support when information technology kicks in & blows cold. It's a pretty weird organisation and complicated to explain to any passenger when they notice me constantly doing the windows-upward-windows-downwardly jive.
Information technology's like the motorcar is trying to outsmart me..."It'due south twenty beneath outside, why in the world are y'all running the AC y'all dummy". Only you are mistaken, car!! I'grand burning up & you won't requite me my cooling relief. Can anybody shed some light on a possible correlation between this topic and the outcome I'grand experiencing?
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07-12-2013x:56 PM #38
Established Member Ii Rings
Well shoot.............just noticed this is on the B7 forum. Entirely different platform than mine. Will post in the right place at present.
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07-13-201306:37 AM #39
Veteran Member Four Rings
Originally Posted by cosmicvision
What exercise you lot hateful by "snow flake"?
Phil
07-13-201307:18 AM #40
Veteran Member Four Rings
Re: Bad Ambient Temperature Sensor? Where's information technology located?
Originally Posted by fly300kts
On the color display, you become a snow flake on the dash to warn yous when the temperature is below ~40°, at that place could exist ice. You lot might not know this since you live in Florida. Lol.
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